1 - except for minor adjustment with a stroboscope, it works as you say
2 - yes, obd2b to obd1 conversion harness (please do verify yourself all wires are at the correct locations, errors can be build in!!!)
3 - uhm... I think it hardly matters, but since I never changed out an entire wireloom (though much easier), I have no real idea of any pitfalls. I think either is fine
hi, ahhhh useful info and yes it is/been told its obd2b!
Do you mean literally adding an extra couple of wires to the loom, where it connects to the conversion harness? because this definatly sounds easier than swapping the full engine loom.
I dont think theres anyone on this forum thats gone obd1 and fitted vtec on a d14z2, so im realy struggling for definate parts!
You have to go to a scrapyard were you cut the OBD2b ECU connectors for some extra wires and find yourself the 1-wire connetor for the VTEC (and perhaps the 2-wire). Both these plugs are very common in engine looms, especially from 91-95 you can snatch them. Often scrappers tell you they don't keep the wirelooms in their cars, but when I went looking it was just there, probably half of the time they are too lazy to actually do it.
Ahhh good info people,
So would I need the full length of wire to go from ecu to my vtec solenoid
Switch? and do you (dodo) mean get the wires off any 0bd2b civic,or does it have to be an od2b vtec?
Sorry 4 so many questions but I'm f***ed with the car off the road....
Nah just grap some length of wire, I usually pick around 30 to 40 cm. I just solder in the rest through the firewall.
About the ECU wires, there is only 2 types of pin in OBD1. I forgot the details about OBD2, it's 1 type of pin or 2 types. Just grab the connectors, no matter VTEC or not. There will be plenty of wires inside that will do the job.
Then the tricky part is to remove the wires from the connectors gently and put them in your current connectors. That actually takes some learning, probably also frustration and a few broken pins before you'll fully understand. You only need a very tiny screwdriver (those small precision work type screwdrivers). There are some well documented sources with pictures on the internet to see.
But here is my description of how to pull a wire without forcing from an OBD2 ECU connector (OBD2a and OBD2b work the same way). First you have to loosen the locking cap. It is the white colored insert which sits in the grey or blue connector. Use a precision screwdriver to pull it out of the connector only a little. There are 2 or 3 holes where you can put the screwdriver. It only has to come out 1 or 2 mm, it will not go further, but you should feel the click or difference once you push it back in.
With the locking cap in the 'open' position you can now insert a tiny screwdriver in the pinhole you want to remove a pin+wire from. Insert from the ECU side, NOT the wire side! After about 5 or 7 mm you should feel some blockage. Now actually, you should not have inserted the screwdriver straight, but above the pin itself on a slight angle (5 to 10 degrees) with the tip pointing towards the pin. Once the screwdriver is blocked, gently position the screwdriver from the angle position to the straight position. Doing so releases the blocking tap inside the connector and now you should be able to gently pull the wire out of the connector with an undamaged pin.
Now it is really hard to write down how to do it and I even do not exactly understand why the pin is released doing the above. But it works once you get the feeling. You will destroy some pins the first time, just realize that. You have to feel the exact amount of pressure to apply. If the pins and connectors are in mint condition it goes really smooth. Unfortunately I have had a lot of looms to work on from other people who had there go at these connectors first. Trying to get pins from an already mangled connector pinhole is really difficult and often requires an increase in force applied before you get the thing to work.
One other tip... start removing pins from connectors from the engine bay first, just for fun and learning. Especially the older OBD1 connectors, these are easier to understand, but can help you tune in your feeling before attacking the complexer ECU connectors.
I think what you just explained will make alot more sense once i have an ecu loom/wires in my hand, as i have NO experience with this.....But i think i get what you mean!
Well thats the vtec switch covered, is it likely that there will be many other wires to add? Eg if the dizzy i use has less/more wires leading to it than the original d14 would of had?
I plan to use a d16z6 dizzy or EK3 (and you say it can be used but the holes dont line up??) well if this is the case should i try to make some sort of bracket or stabiliser to keep it in place? heard of this been done before?
thanks once again tom
P.s when i pull my finger out il get some photos online
I think some people have torn up their dizzies to make it fit, so they cut extra holes in it.. but I am not fond of it.
About extra wires... my guess would be only VTEC and 4-wire lambda is needed. The last will require 3 extra wires through the firewall, but 2 of them are already used on the ECU, you have to split those wires. Normally Honda does the splitting as well. In OBD0 cars it was done similar as what I always do, split near the ECU. But in OBD1 and OBD2 cars there are dedicated splitting plugs everywhere, especially beneath your intake manifold. Those are all the blind plugs (plugs not connected to another plug) which can be found.
Ow and yes, I do have some experience over the years .
tom
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