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hi!
I have civic 99 1.4 OBD2b.
So The part I need to swap to OBD1 is:
-OBD1 Ecu like: (P28 or P06). thanks for update me!
- Inlet from D16Y8 or D16Z6.
- boomslang Conversion Harness.
- 240cc injectors.
- Change the RAVC to IAVC (from 3 wire to 2 wire).
And Thats It's?
thanks i will glad if someone open my eyes!

You need an OBD1 ECU aswell.

Yeah that pretty much seems ok.

Some details:

Just go for P06 ECU if you don't want to add VTEC. That one will run by default.

New gaskets are also welcome, throttle body gasket and inlet manifold gasket.

Inlet: take both inlet and intake manifold. (!)

In case of the D16Z6 IM, some rework is needed to let the throttle cable have the correct distance to the TB. In both IM cases I advice to get the corresponding throttle cable for best fitment.

Heated lambda is needed (or do you have it already?), you need some additional wiring (which you can fit in the conversion-harness).

Overall speaking, much simpler to get OBD1 on your care compared to mine.

hi!
I Have Heated Lambda 4 wires...Right?
I have 2 lambada sensor, so how it's work?
I don't need to change injector wire or distrbutor or somthing like that?
D16Y8 inlet manifold+TB+TB cable is ok right?
Need the plug to connect 2 wire with new IAVC right?
What with the immobilizer on the key?
No Need to chip the ecu?
Hondata Gasket is best?

I ask a lot for the best result!
Thank all very much!

Use the D14 TB for the OBD1 swap I believe, can you clarify Joris?

EK99: most questions I can answer with 'yes'.

The 2nd lambda sensor will not be utilised, but no harm to leave it where it is.

Immo: I'd rather don't go into the details, rest assure you do not have to worry about the engine not running. You do loose a part of its functionality though.

TB, actually it does not matter. Incase of D14 TB, close of RACV with a plate like me or do connect coolant (unlike me), I prefer the first. Both types TB, just connect the IACV indeed with a 2-wire plug, yup.

Chipping ECU not neccessary as long as you have the 240cc injectors, but recommended yes.

Hondata gasket best... only when you want to cool down the IM like me, so only when you diconnect all coolant hoses to TB and IACV. There is one drawback to the Hondata gasket, since it is very thick and the holes are over-sized; you get a large jump in the inlet runner flow. Perhaps helping flow, perhaps distrubing flow. I do know of a similar case were once the 'jump' was removed power was lost (some ITB setup on totally different car, the prototype worked good, the seamlessly made final product had less hp because of this!). So, don't worry if you decide for OEM Honda gasket.

And dont you have to change dizzy?

Law_ wrote:And dont you have to change dizzy?

OBD2b (1998 onwards EJ9's) dont require dizzy change only OBD2a (1996-1998).

mynameisowen wrote:

Law_ wrote:And dont you have to change dizzy?

OBD2b (1998 onwards EJ9's) dont require dizzy change only OBD2a (1996-1998).

Didnt knew ! Why is that?
Lucky bastards !
Hehe
Cheers

I think its to do with the OBD2a having a 7 wire dizzy and OBD2b having 9 wire. I'm not sure myself but I know I have a 1996 EJ9 so I gotta change aswell