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Hi, I'm currently having trouble with my idle. I've got a 2000 ej9 d14z2.
First of all I fitted a d16z6 inlet, which all worked fine. Then I converted from obd2b to obd1 using a p28 ecu and the iacv on back of inlet. After doing this the car still ran like a dream.

I then rebuilt a d16z6 head (lapped valves, changed all the seals and got head skimmed) and since fitting the head the car idles really bad, it cuts out at almost every set of traffic lights.

To try and solve the problem I checked cam timing, set base idle and ignition timing using a strobe light thing. Reset the ecu. Tried a different iacv, tried the 240cc injectors (which made it run worse and hesitate), checked for vacuum leaks (none present), bled cooling system and changed coolant temp sensor. Also there's no trouble codes.
I think it may be lacking power also, I can't really feel of hear vtec actuating (not sure if I should as it is sohc) and my mates standard d14a4 is a lot quicker than mine. Not sure if this is related to the idle problem.
Any help would be appreciated, as I now don't have a clue what to do next, and really starting to hate my car. Many thanks, Tom

Wow this seems a though cooky...

But first some house rules, it would be very much appreciated if you'd introduce yourself in the appropriate part of this forum, see the rules in the top forum. I was not able to find your introduction topic. Now back to being constructive.

First question which pops in mind, how much did you skim of the head? Any change you got a real high CR now?

Second, is the compression all right on all 4 cilinders? (Get a compression meter for under 20 pounds and put it on the sparkplug shafts, simple check, all 4 the same indicates all right). Even cheaper, turn angine by hand and see if the feel of all 4 cilinders is approximatly the same, a really gone piston can be felt that way.

Third, can you measure air to fuel ratios somewhere? Preferably buy your own wideband lambda prope and start measuring with it. I got a feeling your mixture might be overly rich, therefore 240cc making matters only worse.

Fourth, sometimes I see the most crappy homemade exhaust projects. Can you show pictures of your cars inlet and outlet trajectories or tell which brands are under it? (Here the introduction topic would come in handy again!)

For the rest: yes your car should be much quicker as a stock D14A4, and yes you can hear and feel VTEC as long as catalyc converter is in place. I always note that without it, it becomes more difficult to hear. On another note, even without VTEC you should still make more power compared to D14A4. VTEC on a SOHC does not do that much.

I wish you all damn luck solving this issue, its never fun having spent so much time on a good engine and getting it wrong somehow.

Hi, sorry I will introduce myself as soon as I get on my laptop, as I'm using my iPhone and its a pain to write with.
Umm, not sure exactly how much, but the guy that skimmed it said it was very minimal..

I will check the compressions tomorrow at work if I have time, I'm sure there ok though.

As for it running rich, I measured the emissions, and with the 190cc injectors it wasn't that bad, and it ran ok with that ecu before the head swap, never cut out, and the idle was as smooth as anything...

My inlet is a eBay cone filter and intake pipe (can't afford anything better at the moment) but again it ran fine with it before.. And for exhaust I have japspeed 4-2-1 manifold, eBay decat pipe and japspeed backbox..
Yea, I just don't get why his is quicker, it was even when mine was untouched, it's very frustrating.
Thanks for your help, if you have any other ideas please let me know..

Darn, theoretically you should have felt no difference before and after skimming, somewhere something must have gone wrong. Just wrong...

Yep, I think I'm gunna give up on trying to fix it now. I'm just gunna drop in a complete d16z6 I think. What do you think? I'm guessing it will be a straight forward bolt in now won't it? Do you know if my original 1.4 ancillaries will fit? E.g. Starter, alternator, power steering pump, gearbox??
Thanks, Tom.

Meh, I am always in for the dig. See what's the problem and fix it, but that is my opinion and way of enacting this silly hobby of ours . Last week I thought I've messed up my B16B engine since it seemed to be leaking oil through the head gasket. Taking it apart I found out it was a silly cam shaft seal that was blown out... just as an inspirational note.

Back to your main question: D16Z6 should be a pretty straightforward drop. I did the reverse by mounting a D14 in an EJ2 chassis last year. Starter I do not know, guess it might fit. All the rest will fit somehow. You have to keep alternator and steering pump from D14. Alternator is easy, steering pump needs the brackets, in my case I mounted D15B7 PS pump on D14 which was a lucky fit. I think the reverse in your case is easier.

But check alternators... btw I am assuming you pick D16Z6 tranny? Otherwise you need to figure out the flywheel/clutch combo you are going to put as well.

have you got any check engine lights issues? What about your lambda sensor? Are you sure you haven't blown the headgasket somehow? (check for mixed engine water and oil on the reserve box)

Nope, no engine management light, headgasket is fine. Can't see it being a lambda fault, as mixture seems good, and I didn't touch the lambda sensor when doing head swap...

Check wiring, perhaps one of the wires was put under too much stress and has cracked on the inside, happens pretty often. Do all cilinders run equally? Is the burn in all 4 right? How do spark plugs look etc.?

Hi, had the spark plugs out yesterday, there all very black, over fueling I believe. I checked the compressions, which were all fine.
I then put noid lights on the injector plugs, and number one injector was flashing twice as fast as the other 3. I have no idea what would cause that? I'm guessing the ecu is dead.
I don't know if this would cause the idle problem. And it must be running rich on the other three aswel looking at spark plugs...