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I have a problem with the idle, the idle is around +- 1500 rpm.
The idle problem is started by the IM swap, (D16Z6 IM on stock D14Z2)

My question is who can check my engine what is wrong?


(Ik kom er niet uit wat er loos is , ik heb er niet zoveel verstand van misschien is hier iemand die er naar kan kijken/oplossen?)

Please stick to English. As for IM swap with idle rev problems. It happens really a lot. Most often its simply because air is leaking in when you don;t want to.

Three reasons are all very common:
-removing the old gasket from the cylinder head is not done properly, some remains are stuck and cause leakage
-the throttle body gasket sits not right, either same problem as above or wrong gasket. I am not sure which gaskets you should have but check them out visually, some combination leave big holes open
-one of the vacuum lines is not connected good, especially the EVAP is left out sometimes, this small hole can cause the idle to rev this high

Actually it is always a leak somewhere this problem, without leakage and a good closing throttle body the car is hardly able to 1500 rpm. Btw how many rpm does the car idle right after starting with a cold engine, does it get over 2000?

Another thing, sometimes idle sucks right after performing the swap due to miss interpretation of the coolant temperature when some air bubbles remain, but often this reveals itself as a moving rev, not a constant high rev. Ehm but well, did you bleed the coolant properly?

I have a new throttle body gasket on it it's sits right, and a Hondata intake gasket.

With cold start 1500 rpm, riding with clutch down 2000+ rpm. When it's warm 1000, when i give a little bit throttle by still standing the idle is going down to 600. But after driving it's going to 1000 rpm again.

The coolant is bleeded, but it leaks under the IM that hose is closed with a bolt. I want it looped to the other closed hose on the right side of the IM, so it can't leak.

My throttle pedal feels it's stuck, after a while when the engine is off. Maybe a problem with the throttle valve?

Throttle pedal feeling stuck is indeed the adjustment of the valve itself. There is a 'stop' screw which you should adjust until the valve does not stick anymore. Its because you changed the cable pulley on the TB isn't it? Probably the valve now also stucks when you drive high rpm, and suddenly release throttle? Pressing in after revving down a little the pedal will feel stuck again probably, than its just that.

Actuallly, your rpms sound pretty normal, especially in this cold days a good engine should be able to rev 2000 rpm to warm up quickly. Mine can;t do more than 1000 real cold and only jumps to 1400 for a little while before heating up and going to 700.

The target for warm engine standing still should be 700-750. But when driving the target is 900! So a little over 1000 is not really bad... you might simply try to adjust the idle screw a little, its probably hidden beneath a rubber nipple in the throttle body right now.

Also, the ECU needs some learning time. I assume the battery has been disconnected previously? That would have reset-ted it at least. Give it a week, daily driving, revs might get better.

I pulled the "7.5A radio backup" fuse out to reset the ecu.

The problem is already solved, the coolant hose was not connected to the throttle body. That was the idling problem.

Rev wrote:The problem is already solved, the coolant hose was not connected to the throttle body. That was the idling problem.

witch one??? there are several...