www.dodo-upgrades.nl

Hi guys, I'm finally getting off my arse and installing my D16Y8 manifold that I've had sitting around for 3 years now.

I have a couple of questions that need answering before I can do this over a weekend, I need to make sure all goes well since I need to drive the car 80 miles to work and back on Monday.

For background information I will converting from a stock D14A4 IM to a Y8, I will NOT be converting to OBD1 at this stage but will do in the near-ish future. So this means I will keep using my RACV but will fit the IACV for the future.

So without further ado:

1. If I attach my IACV to my manifold but leave it unplugged (to loom and to coolant circuit) then will this have any negative effects?

2. Where should I plug in my Intake Air Temperature sensor if I am no longer using the D14 air filter?

3. There is a small air tube which links the bottom of the D14 IM to the block/head, it is quite far down and hard to see where precisely it attaches to the engine. The Y8 manifold has no corresponding connection. Is this important? Should I just plug it off?

4. I need to buy a new TB and IM gasket, can somone provide the part numbers for these? I have a Y8 manifold and a standard D14 TB using RACV.

5. I want to make some custom tubing for my air intake, what is a good choice for connecting to the TB?

6. It would also be really helpful if someone can post the Honda Schematics for both the Y8 and D14 IM's and TB's. Betek you're normally the don for this sort of thing?!

7. Finally, what tools should I buy to do this job? At present I have virtually none, I will be buying one of the folowing probably:
* http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 55215#tab1
* http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... PDPz1#tab1
* http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryId_#tab1

It's a shame that they all come with imperial sockets... Wasted space as far as I'm concerned. Anything glaringly obvious missing from these sets? What size spark plug sockets do our D14's require?

Thanks for the help guys

Hi Owen,
i think you can leave the IACV on the manifold, or at least that is what i did and so far no problems.
The temp sensor is usually placed close to the TB, on the intake tubing. You can make a whole in the tube like i did and use the rubber ring from the old filter box to seal the whole thing.
The d14 TB gasket is pretty strong, and in my case didn't need replacement..if it does just buy some gasket maker and you'll be fine.
For intake tubing you can use aluminum pipes 2.5'' ..I used 2 pcs , one bend and one straight. They might need some metal work involved in order to fit. The joints in my case are blue silicone tubes for high pressure apps. You can see all this in my intro topic.
I hope I've helped a little.

some pictures from my d16y5/d5z6 IM(looks almost the same as d16y8 IM )

Acc3l3ratoR wrote:IM SWAP-ing .... Done
All i can say is ...Woooooow

The sound the engine its making now is alone worth the trouble changing the intake mainfold....
Also i think i can feel the car puling stronger .... till the high revs... (thats my experience soo far... )

pics:

i used new gaskets... (you can see the part number on the im gasket in the picture )and covered up the iacv and egr ...
and sone new ruber tubes designed for preasure .... my intake is made from some renault/volvo intake tube .... in combination with an KnN airfilter ...
For the IAT sensor i drilled a hole in the intake tube ...and with a piece of ruber tubing i installed the iat and with another tube for the breather tube..

also i have removed the im bracket (wich is the cause of a honda service call ...some wires are rubbing on the braket ain burns the no 15 fuse under the dash...and the car doesnt stat because of that..

also.. for the winter i also bought the oem air tubbing fron an ek3

The small tube that connects to the coolant to the water pump (check image below), what is the point of it and is it important? I don't think my Y8 manifold has a plug for it to connect to. Relates to my question 3.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/dsc0460o.jpg/

Thanks for the help guys.

The part number for that gasket, surely it will differ from store to store or is that the Honda number?

mynameisowen wrote:The small tube that connects to the coolant to the water pump (check image below), what is the point of it and is it important? I don't think my Y8 manifold has a plug for it to connect to. Relates to my question 3.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/dsc0460o.jpg/

Thanks for the help guys.

The part number for that gasket, surely it will differ from store to store or is that the Honda number?

the one in the picture is the return coolent hose and it goes to the racv....
there is another one with goes to the large connection on top of the y8 IM

here is a link to someone who swapped an IM like ours...:
http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic/10 ... rade-pics/

be careful not to swap the coonnectors of the TPS and MAP!

Does Anyone haves a clear picture of rerouting the coolant so that it don't goes in to the IM

Thank you

I've been talking to a fellow Honda fan and we decided that when using the RACV there really isn't much to gain from looping the coolant since it provides the benefit of warming up the engine marginally quicker and allowing for better fuel vapourisation and as such better combustion when the engine is warm.

The performance benefit from running cooler (more dense) air must be so marginal that I don't think I'll bother looping it.

Opinions?

Also has onyone got part numbers for the TB and IM gaskets, last time I went into a motorfactors they didnt even know that they existed!?!

I totally agree, warming the I'm is especially important during the winter

Keep it like stock. Our engine takes a lot time as it is to reach optimum water temperature.

I removed it to get better response in traffic jams/traffic lights with heat soaking engine bay.