www.dodo-upgrades.nl

within a week, my precious crower camgear will arive

i'm going to assemble my head with the next specs::
- grinded 0,8 mm of head for a compression 10:1
- intake ports are gasketmatched and flowed
- IM swap
- megan racing header

but unfortunatly i'm stuck up with stock valves and valvesprings and camshaft.

in my little bits box i have almost the complete obd1 swap, except 240cc injectors ( i'm waiting for them, they will be cleaned supersonic)

the question isss......:
wich setting to use on my camgear and ignition?

joris told me that i have to set my camshaft retarded, but i don't know how much to set from the beginning.

and on this moment i dont have read-out capability or a dyno...
that's why i have to know what setting is best to start from.

futheron this week i will post some foto's of my head and while i'm building the "beast" back in my precious ride

sounds awesome, wish i could help you but i cant

make sure you take loads of pics!!

With this setup I actually can't give any good advise... just start at zero in this case (and get to that dyno eventually!).

hmmm that's not much, doesn't matter

i will start from zero and work furtheron?
think this is a good setup?

next friday is the day sooo...

You'll need a aftermarket cam to take advantage of the head porting.
DON'T make those ports bigger leave them stock and just clean everything up.You'll lose hp by making them bigger ,specially on a d14.
As for the cam gear set it back 6 degree's.I think it was for every 0.010" milled you need to take 2 degree's timing off.In this case it's milled 0.0315"

hondaNickx wrote:You'll need a aftermarket cam to take advantage of the head porting.
DON'T make those ports bigger leave them stock and just clean everything up.You'll lose hp by making them bigger ,specially on a d14.
As for the cam gear set it back 6 degree's.I think it was for every 0.010" milled you need to take 2 degree's timing off.In this case it's milled 0.0315"

Do you think this apply to D16 head (with internals) on D14 block?

Law_ wrote:

hondaNickx wrote:You'll need a aftermarket cam to take advantage of the head porting.
DON'T make those ports bigger leave them stock and just clean everything up.You'll lose hp by making them bigger ,specially on a d14.
As for the cam gear set it back 6 degree's.I think it was for every 0.010" milled you need to take 2 degree's timing off.In this case it's milled 0.0315"

Do you think this apply to D16 head (with internals) on D14 block?

It's actually a general rule for D16 engines .If you milled the head a lot you need to set more degree's. In the end you need to find out when you're tuning the engine what's best.If it's too much or not enough you'll find out quickly when the engine doesn't respond good enough.
As for the porting that goes for almost every D14 with D16 head.
Bisimoto himself once said the most gaines in a sohc head come from the valve angle job and cleaning up the ports and the bowl area.Don't ever ever ever take material of the port Floor ,that's the worst you could do.You could widen the ports a little to gasket match other then that i would clean it up and make the ports rough texture on the intake to promote air and fuel mixing.Also using aftermarket valves also helps with more flow cause those valves have a valve stem undercut .

hmmm hope mine is just flowed enough, we will find out within a week.

thnx for the camgeartiming..

great news!

the guy working on my clininderhead told me, he calculated all those things that u told me here, i gave him a call soon after reading the reply.

but he told me he already know these things so now my head is gasketmatched but my valveangle is still 45 degrees.....

great news!

i'm driving again.

my engine runs not quite good but i need to adjust some things and i'm waiting for my camgear and header.

in high revs my car is pretty fast but bottom revs, i have no torque at all, it's so bad that i have to drive away with a slipping clutch, but within a few weeks these problems are over. and my car is stuttering when i'm on constant throttle. i think my ecu is calculating my fuel-injection constanly, and my flow is so high that my max fuelinjection reached its limit, so my obd1 swap is planned earlier so i can use the 240cc injector's
when my car reached 5000 revs it almost seems if a "big-ass-tubro" kicks in, but from 0 to 5000 revs, i'd better push my car, but that problem will be over soon, i think with more flow in my exhaust system ( header and cat) low revs has more torque, so waiting for my header and removing my cat... (anyone with bright idea's for adjustments is welcome:P)

my girlfriend's dad is pretty handy with electrical things and he said he wil do the obd1-swap within a couple of hours , so the question now is will my car run properly with a stock non-adjusted p06 ecu?