www.dodo-upgrades.nl

Let's talk about what will be acheivable on a built d14a3

i am planning a big turbo d14 build.
To show what a small capacity engine is capable of.
Especialy the d14 which, a lot of people ditch in favour of a b-series engine.

I have nothing against a nice b16 or whatsoever but i think for the money that buys you
Such a engine en parts to make it fit...
you could have a fast d14.

my goals are at first to convert my stock 217.000km engine to obd1,and turbo it.
Reaching 180-190hp.

I already have a spare block for the next step.
This block will be built with 75.5mm phgx pistons.
And crower rods, since this is the sole manufacturer of fitting rods.
Intake will be a golden eagle or gato manifold.

Goal of this second block will be anywhere between 200 to 300hp
Tips are welcome

I have tried to convince my tuner to go turbo on my d14a4 but he refused twice:)
The first and only thing he showed me was the size of the connecting rods of that engine, i mean they are extremely thin! The point of the guy was that it is inevitable that the NM will brake the rods eventually. (and he has expirienced such cases)
If you are still keen on the idea going to aftermarket rods and pistons is the way to go from step 1.

Still i admire scuh projects beacuse they are out of the ordinary...if somebody can clarify the case i may restart my own project:)

There are several d14 engines out there that were boosted and they all had around 170- 210hp with a stock bottem end.The rods are thin but the great R/S ratio of the engine doesn't put much stress on these rods.That's why they can handle that much without breaking imo.
PS : ZRP rods can make custom rods for 600 euros.I asked them once to make some for the D14 and they said they can make custom ones for 600euro.That's cheaper then importing crower rods.ZRP rods are however H beams rods.

Just keep boost to 0.4 ~ 0.5 bar and you'd be safe.

However learning about boost and working on the Jamex Turbo Civic this year learned me the following... hardly nobody uses boost controllers it seems! Most people simply take turbo with waste gate and some spring and let the vacuum to the controlling... this resulted, at least for the Jamex in a 0.3 bar boost average and only a peak of 0.6/0.7 at one spot. This peak together with bad heat disposal IMHO kills the engine while perhaps not even reaching 180 bhp. It is all about maximising potential without missing the dead zones ...

The point: use a boost controller and know the working area of your turbo (= read + understand flowchart).

The project is still going.
I will be looking into the crower rods vs the custom made options.
Pricewise and in weight.
The strenghth of both options will be enough for the goals, i think.

Goal for my current engine is getting everything up and running, figuring out when the turbo will spool and eliminating leaks and problems while using the stock engine.
Probably on 5-8psi to keep things safe.

On this setup i will be using a GFB boostcontroller to keep boost at the exact preset, instead of relying on the wastegate only.
Another benefit of this is the fact that the boostcontroller can control the boost to the redline keeping it from falling off.

Goal for the second and "build" engine will be 300hp
On a hopefully 900kg car, chasing the hp per kg specs from some early group b cars.

Tips or ideas are still welcome

Anyone more ideas to reach the 300hp mark?

-aftermarket forged rods
-75,5mm phgx pistons
-stock camshaft
-upgraded valvesprings
-adjustable camgear
-cast topmount manifold
-t04e turbo
-gfb digital boostcontroller

i think cost very expensive. maybe take B\H series ?

This build is happening, cost isnt such a issue.
If i would switch to a b series it would cost me €1500 or more to get that running, and then im stuck with a old used motor.
Instead i can build a d14 for less and have all the things to mount it already in my car.