To mini-me or not?

[Dodo Bizar]

I agree with the prices. Around here you pay the same approximately.

[Raimundo]

Mini Me:
Cam Gear (100eur)
Distriburetor (80eur)
Complete Head with VTEC solenoid (150eur)
P28 / P2P ECU and original cables from the motor (150eur)
Gaskets and Acessories (50eur)

The power will rise to 130-140 hp (engine).

Law, let-me tell you a few things you will also need:

Cam Gear price is 40/50€, not 100€.
Distributor, you can get one from MA8 1.4i Civic, which, althought being still TD-44, cheaper.
The price for the head is correct, I recommend to change the valve seals, as they are know for premature wearing in D Series heads, so, another 80€ for that part. You should rotate valves (?) so they fit tight to the head (no compression losses).

P28 ECU is great, and cables are too, so you right on that.

For a perfect setup, you should use D16Y8 head gasket, you can reuse your exhaust gasket, and should buy thermal intake gasket. You will also need 4/5l of oil, filter, coolant, I recomend to change timming belt and tensor when doing this head swap (all done at a time).

And 130hp is optimist, for stock P28 head.

You engine must be in great condition to achieve that value.

Btw, you should also use ARP Head Studs, since there will be more compression ratio, and thus more power being generated on the engine.

[Law_]

Slowly i will buy all that parts
I've changed belt and tensioner now.
It's always the same doubt, but can i reuse my belt?
Cheers

[Raimundo]

You got to use D16Z6 (or other head code) timming belt, althought you might re-use your tensioner.

That is up for the head studs, to.

[demolik]

Distributor, you can get one from MA8 1.4i Civic, which, althought being still TD-44, cheaper.

That's one I didn't know. It's have obd1 plugs?

[Law_]

i didnt knew about the distriburetor too. Thank you very much for the tip

i was planning to buy a TDU - 44 (?) somenthing i guess. I know people who have done the mini me with the original timing belt and run it for a lot of time but for 40eur i can put a new one, no problem at all. I guess the problem with the belt is, when you remove some material from the head gasket to gain compression, if it is too much, the belt can "jump" one teeth, and that can be very bad.

When i reffered that value (130-140hp) it was with intake manifold and new TB. Im pretty sure that i can be achieved. Commonly just with IM power goes between 118 - 123 hp as we can see in Dodo's site. I'm also certain that our cars almost reach 100hp. In comparison with other cars i can see that. Anybody had done a Dyno of a stock car?

Thank you
PS. Does anybody wants to enumerate the parts needed and the price for the head job to comparison? Thanks

[saxophonias]

Check this topic
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=37


When swapping heads you need to change gaskets as well. It is imperative. I would only use genuine honda kits which are quite expensive and this arises the cost.
Another benefit of not doing the mini-me is that you don't need to take out your head. So less cost for parts and working hours. This is for the safe side as, when removing the head gasket precision job is required in order everything to be factory spec.

[Dodo Bizar]

Sorry gents if I am not reading correctly. But are we talking about headswap on D14? Then do not use D16Z6 belt, use original D14 belt... this aint the D15B mini-me. Head design is the same while block is shorter of D14, so you need 103 teeth instead of 104. (D15B2/7 is 106!).

And cam gear... over here it is really 100 euro, new price that is.

Gasket, order your normal D14 gasket, it is the same one as D16Y8, no problems getting chassiscodes or whatever for your lazy dealership...

CR is not any much higher so forget about the studs, not needed. Even with CR up to 11 you can easily keep OEM. Never heard of a mini-me breaking the studs. Turbo is something else, then you need 'em.

Now I hope I didn't miss something saying this was about D15B2/7 mini-me...

[Law_]

I'm doing like Dodo, trying the mini-me. Glad thad no new belt is needed though. but i am happy to see that are different procedures to achieve the same thing. Cheers

[Raimundo]

Dodo, back here my regular mechanic has done a job on a D14A4 engine, with D16Y8 head, and use regular studs, one of them broke and there was a compression leakage.

It was his advice to use ARP Head studs.