D13Y8

[BETEK]

This little overlooking with gaskets happens from many people here after IM swapping and they searching other problems rather than simple ones!
But overall, it is good that you solved the problem!!
Now enjoy your engine

About BKR7E-11, these spark plugs are very cold for our "little" D-series engines.
It is better to use the BKR6E-11 or if you live in cold climate the BKR5E-11.
And of course better from that spark plugs are the iridium ones.
I recommend to go directly to iridium to save money and time.

[007]

@BETEK, the ambient temperatures here are quite hot and hence, NGK specifies BKR6E in its catalog as stock for our Honda engines here. my increased CR *might* warrant 7s, so I would like to test everything out before finalizing. also, the normal NGK plugs arent that expensive. a set of 4 normal costs as much as a single Iridium, so I wont be wasting a lot of money behind it; just spending a little time observing, thats all.

[007]

picked up on a little project that Ive been wanting to do since a long time but never gotten around to doing: converting VBox data to something resembling a torque curve. the key to this is to extract acceleration data from the speed data that the VBox makes available. tis has also made me realize how atrophied my coding skills have become after continuously working on 3 tier shit for god knows how long now. anyway, here is a little sample of where I have gotten so far. the red stuff is speed [X axis] vs time [Y axis] and the green is acceleration [X axis] vs time [Y axis]. ideally the green line will have to be flat or rising upwards.

[007]

little ripper video I managed to shoot today...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1_CdNOg3bk

[Dodo Bizar]

Maybe extract some resistance curve later in the process? Acceleration signal looks pretty at least, and gives a benchmark to tune against when fiddling around.

[007]

that is the plan Joris. the data used to plot those graphs however is very old. was simply using it to test.

but yes, like you said, acceleration curves from different runs overlaid on each other will give me some nice tuning indicators. if I have my data points at a spacing of 100 RPM [easy to do when you have 10 samples per second ], this should be pretty sweet. will work on this further during the weekend.

[sktaroins]

I watched ur vedio a while ago .. I have to say its nice and not nice too why is ur reader not working properly ? Sry ur speedometer I feel its not reading properly , check it too?
At what speed r u changing to 2nd gear?
Did u purposly add weight " ur friends " and then took a vedio after u worked on it.?
Dont get me mad props to that but after every built therz something called rodage engine routing
The cylinders ,sry the pstons will take time to level up to its max height and u need to drive it fir a long drive especially after the re-built.
I dont know how u bated ur pistons but u need to open it up more.. I feel its choked bro,
It sounds good on burning but it needs the exhaust to execute , if still on stock , u need to get a bigger one thats if u are doing it wrong or going wrong somehow.
Are your gaskets well, no leaks? How is ur pumping ?
Sry bro im a little short on ur work but u on the stock clutch and disc plate?
Its very harmful when u clean or rebuilt an engine using a weak disc plate

alakhair bro
Tc

[007]

lot of questions.

I watched ur vedio a while ago .. I have to say its nice and not nice too why is ur reader not working properly ? Sry ur speedometer I feel its not reading properly , check it too?

the instrument cluster is borderline shot. it has been that way since I had a major crash. I also tried to get a little "creative" and painted the needles with some glow in the dark powder mixed in epoxy. that has added weight to the needles and destroyed the spring calibration. I am not bothering to change it because I want to go with a fully digital display later. so this can stay for now.

At what speed r u changing to 2nd gear?

somewhere between 50-55 kmph.

Did u purposly add weight " ur friends " and then took a vedio after u worked on it.?

well myself and my friend had gone out for a drive and we suddenly decided to make that video. it was a spur of the moment thing and that is also why I was unprepared. if I had planned it I would have hooked up the VBox and the datalogger while I was doing this.

Dont get me mad props to that but after every built therz something called rodage engine routing
The cylinders ,sry the pstons will take time to level up to its max height and u need to drive it fir a long drive especially after the re-built.
I dont know how u bated ur pistons but u need to open it up more.. I feel its choked bro,

yeah I feel the engine is slightly restricted too. but that isnt because of the pistons or the engine running in. that was completed a long time ago. what I feel is that proper cam and ignition timing are needed. like I mentioned, this was a makeshift basemap. my only reason to make the video was to compare it with the old non VTEC setup and see where I stood.

It sounds good on burning but it needs the exhaust to execute , if still on stock , u need to get a bigger one thats if u are doing it wrong or going wrong somehow.

I am running a custom built FFE but the calculations were made for a non VTEC head. in a month or two I will be getting a new exhaust made to suit this one. I feel there is a lot of potential to be unlocked there. the present exhaust is choking things quite badly.

Are your gaskets well, no leaks? How is ur pumping ?

all gaskets are good. no coolant / oil consumption. there is a pinhole oil leak near the oil pump seal but it is insignificant. maybe a drop every two days or something like that. Im having a hard time finding another seal but once I get it I will take care of that.
by "pumping" I assume you mean compression. it is good at 210 psi +/- 5 psi on all four cylinders on a cold engine. goes up to around 220 +/- 5 on a warm engine.

Sry bro im a little short on ur work but u on the stock clutch and disc plate?
Its very harmful when u clean or rebuilt an engine using a weak disc plate

clutch is fine. no slippage. it is an Exedy stock replacement clutch. had maybe 10000 km on it when the engine was rebuilt. it still has a lot of life left in it. I am also running a Fidanza 8 lb flywheel.

alakhair bro
Tc

seeya.
do feel free to ask any more questions you may have.

[sktaroins]

U know , I saw ur mail 4days back but couldnt reply bcoz I was busy at work.

However, I agree with the cam and timing belt , they need to be changed. A better and stronger built cam.
The oil leak is minor but it can be taken care of.
And the exhaust will be N1 for my next upgrade, at the moment iam running on borla exhaust .. Music to my ears but. Loud .
I change 2nd at 60 ..
But I need to replace the suspension system and put engine bracket to stabilize the movement.
Iam sure if you put adjustables or a better suspension system the engine will run smoother .
I like the needle to remain old , I hate digital but I know its more calculated but it takes more electricity
I like everything manual but new too.
For the meter gauge ill remove it again and put LED system inside they glow the best.
Probably give it a red glow,

proper full fuel system will take care of ignition , injection , filters , even at the gas tank need to be changed.


Today I learnt something about pistons,
I figured that if the head is heavier " of the piston '
The pump will be better but then the crank needs to be more heavy..
And with a reliable cam .. It will do the job.
Im thinking about this alot actually " the stroke and how to increase its hit"
But as for now iam satisfied with all,
Iam also thinking about a double piston head.. Something new iam designing
A piston but with two heads above each other.
Iam building all my setup and my ideas for a future build .

[007]

got around to some oil pump porting with a spare pump that I had lying around as described by Rushi on http://onecamonly.com . this is how far I got using some crude tools [general purpose drill machine, set of files, emery paper]. I have a Dremel but no bits. and new bits will take a week to arrive. once they do I will be finishing up the job and installing this pump instead of the restrictive piece of shit [96 and above pump] that came with all our cars here. some pictures:

inlet radiusing


outlet radiusing part 1:



outlet porting and radiusing part 2: