Finished - OBD1 swap D14A3/4 complement

[Dodo Bizar]

I should complement the existing article with this:

There are 2 seperately monitored circuits for the (5V) sensors, the SG1 (+VCC1) and the SG2 (+VCC2).

The no. 1 circuit, is solely the MAP circuit which is the most important sensor for the ECU. If that one fails, engine certainly will perform less. Therefore its seperated. So effectively all 3 wires on the MAP sensor are, SG1, VCC1 and MAP (not sure about the order!).

The no. 2 circuit is all the rest. Inside the EJ9 wireloom, under the IM is a big splitter-plug. In here several circuits are split into multiple wires, I think IGP2, some grounds are there (PG, LG?), but definetly SG2 is split there. Its used for at least TPS and IAT, probably ECT as well. I recently puzzled this out for somebodies wireloom I had to repair. I cleaned the loom and in the process needed to pass this splitter plug were I noted the above.

So when having a heated lambda, I am 90% certain the splitter will have one additional SG2 split for it which misses in our EJ9 looms. Therefore, we have to construct our own splits. Personally I prefer splitting near the ECU so you can make sure the correct wire is splitted.

[mynameisowen]

Where would this go in the article??

[Dodo Bizar]

Hmmmm, a quick glance suggests after this part, so its right after I say you need splits:

1: INJ3
2: INJ4
3: CYPP
4: CYPM
5: TDCM
6: CKPP
7: CKPM
8: PO2H
9: additional IGP2 (split!)
10: additional SG2 (split!)

Ok?

[mynameisowen]

Sounds good too me Any chance you could write some info on what to do when taking your car to a tuner to get it mapped? Im sure it would help a few people who have never been before or no what to expect me included...

[Dodo Bizar]

Start out with P06 base maps. You or your tuner should fit the car with a wideband lambda sensor. The fuel maps should all be approximatly around AFR 1:12-13. Most Honda engines are not really sensitive to the fuel mixture in that region, and it gets about the max hp. Leave the ignition maps stock. Only tune them on a dyno please, it's not worth street tuning ignition maps on the road since only very small changes from stock are needed to get maximum performance in general.

Don't be suprised if the fuel values end up higher than the stock 1.5 litre maps, you also have more hp to burn them for! This happens since a good upgraded 1.4 engine breaths better than a stock 1.5.

Is the above any good?

[mynameisowen]

Its good thanks Where do you get basemaps? Do they just plug into the ECU and adjust with their own program or do you need a copy of the maps (e.g on a memory stick??).

Also what can you expect from a tuning session? Ive never been so whats the general process. Do they just change your maps to preset values that they know "work" or do they drive the car around and adjust as you go along??

[Dodo Bizar]

Maps are just 256k I believ, copies of basemaps are everywere around eCtune/Crome websites etc.

Definitly use the engine, either by driving or by dyno-ing. Presets hardly work... I actually figured out presets when I got 116 bhp on my first dyno ever, but it was a lucky guess I got it so close to right.

[mynameisowen]

Great thanks, another thing do you have an approximate cost of a tune? Like tuning an OBD1 ECU to run a D14 mini-me well??

Maybe we could have a thread where people post where and by who they have gotten their car tuned, and how happy they are with the job. I know we're are all spread around Europe but it may be usefull.

[Dodo Bizar]

I'll invite somebody to this topic...

[Dodo Bizar]

Ok, I did not answer the cost question, but that is out of skope of this work of progress IMHO. For the rest I re-editted basically everything suggested here. I'll be closing this topic in a few weeks.