The mini-me project. Head swap

[saxophonias]

I think this has been answered quite a few times here. Check vacuum for leaks, and maybe you changed the place of intake sensors.

[novaksaotome]

i am using the sensor on the d16 IM, should i re install the D14 sensor instead? i will check the vacuum hoses but i think that was all good, i was wondering if the iacv was working fine, do you know if the water temp sensors between the d14 and d16 are the same or compatible?

I think this has been answered quite a few times here. Check vacuum for leaks, and maybe you changed the place of intake sensors.

do you have the link for this? thanks!!!

[Dodo Bizar]

Temperature sensors of coolant are the same, and sensors of inlet temp are equal in functioning.

Actually 2100 rpm sounds good, factory spec cold start is around 2000.

But the rpms can drop to 400... do they stay low or do they rest to 2000 rpm after a few seconds? If they stay low I suspect you still have air in the coolant system, which is very common since bleading the coolant can be hard to do. I always bleed for a while and then just use the car for a week and add some coolant, always some air escapes in that week.

If rpms go back to 2000 each time it does look more like a gasket or tb valve leak.

The crac crac crac does not sound good to me, a OEM cam should be just as silent as the original cam. Are all bearings ok? Do the lobes run free? My S2 stage 1 cam actually had 2 lobes hitting the head, so I milled out the head on these places before putting the car together.

[Dodo Bizar]

@Ilya, in all engines there are 2 temperature sensors located next to each other. A 1-wire sensor and a 2-wire sensor. The 1-wire sensor signal goes to the cockpit and the 2-wire is the so-called ECT sensor which is only used by the ECU.

[novaksaotome]

thanks dodo, well first thing the idle, it goes from 2000 to 400 rpms up and down, up and down, it's not steady. So then i will re do the purge of the coolant system tommorrow morning and check for the tb gasket ( that i actually re use from the d14 tb)

then for the crac crac crac i re did the valve clearance and it got a bit better, tha gap being .15 mm intake and .20 exhaust, but not as silent as my old d14 head, but have to mention that the cam is the oem D16Z6 cam on it's own head; so got worried about letting the engine warm up more. About the bearings, i thought the cam wasnt mounted on bearings but directly on the head?

[novaksaotome]

well, taking a look around on the internet i found that a guy says it could be a tps problem, he describes it just like that high idle then barely stops, high idle and stops, just like mine, so i wonder if it could be so, maybe i screwed up with the wiring? i'll re check that too, or i might try to swap the tb with the stock d14 to see if it runs better...

[mynameisowen]

Reusing gaskets is not a good idea also, maybe most of the idle problem is from there? The cams do fit straight into the head but the little aluminium cam covers are the bearings that dodo is talking about. Check that they arent scuffed or marked but you'vbe probably already checked that. Sounds like valve clearance like you said or the tappets.

[novaksaotome]

well, maybe it's a good time to give a little feedback, after several weeks of using the car after the swap was sucessfull. In deed, the problem was the TB itself of the used D16 i installe in the first place, the leak was on the throtle plate so the ecu was trying to compensate for the extra air coming into the engine, so i modified the D14 TB for it to work like Dodo said, and the idle problem was solved after a couple of hours of running the engine, but still now the idle is a bit low, like 500 rpms, but the car runs fine do. The crapy crac-crac-crac wasnt coming from the valves, but from the cover behind the timing gear, that was touching the AEM pulley, i found that by accident when tightening the bolts, after that the noise was gone. I just love the vtec sound, it's amazing, the thing is that i dont really feel i got a important power gain, probably my tuning isnt right.

[Dodo Bizar]

If you think idle rpm is a bit too low, you can open up the by-pass screw a little. There is a flat screw (maybe hidden under a rubber round thingy) that you can play with a little. Totally influence is small though... you can locate the screw from the inlet side, it is just on top of the TB facing to the right side of the car.

[novaksaotome]

hey dodo, long time no see... well i am pretty sure there's no adjusting screw in my throttle body, i've searched several hours and nothing. this winter the car has had some problems idling at start up, like 1000-900 rpms instead od 1500-1600... but well, you'll probably be dissapointed on me, cause i'll be swaping my d14 block to a fully builded d16... but well it's still a D!