NEW D14 project 150 bhp! non V-tec whahaha :D

[lakaiD14]

haha i live near the Belgium border near arendonk reusel etc. iff you like you can go with me to emile's workshop for any tips or advise iff you'd like to. i can read that you know a lot of these engines and i'm just a beginner

but Emile and the coater told me that the coating on top wil produce more pump presure (pompdruk) and that equals to more power because the energy is more divided acros the surface of the piston and yes i'm using the same pistons that came of the engine i'm building

[hondaNickx]

Yes i can understand that .Without the coating the heat will transfer into your pistons .With the coating there's an barrier that keeps the heat from travelling true the pistons and that will raise the heat inside the combustion chambers giving a more complete burn.But that also means there's more heat transfered to the head unless you get the combustion chambers ceramic coated too.

[lakaiD14]

good point indeed i have thought about that to but there is a limit and it was not necessary to coat the combustion chamber. if i was runnin' nitro methanol then this was a must but with my build it was not necessary.

next stop: shot peening the rods, i know it is not necessary too but my goal is to exclude bottom end failure and i know that a D14 bottom end has to deal with less stress compared to a D15/16. but maybe in the future with the bisimoto level 2 cam and pro valves to reach higher rpm it's nice to know that you have a decent bottom end.

after that blueprint the block and the oil pump to Endyn specs and balance crankshaft.

and then finaly hone and clean the block and i can start my rebuilt

more pics wil follow

[lakaiD14]

little change in plans.....

i do not get my rods shotpeened, because after doing some research, calling some company's etc... the conclusion was:

- first reason: it is not worth doing (stock rods are strong enough), for my purposes.
- second reason: the price was a little high. was between 150/200 euro's (for that money i would rather purchase ARP rod bolts and balance crank and rods.)

and that is exactly what i have done

[ilya]

Sorry, not all read it, this takes a long time, my English is bad.

you ordered P3Y caps, why?

P3Y same standard pistons EJ9 D14. I thought you needed to change them for others for up HP.

[lakaiD14]

nono u can reach great hp gains with stock pistons, i have coated the original pistons (with stock uncoated pistons and a bad bottom end i have reached 122 bhp and 148 Nm of torque)

i ordered ARP rod bolts to give a bit more strength to the connection of the caps and the rods

if u want to tune a D14 the bhp gains u will be able to manage are not to extreme, so coated pistons will do fine and the D14 engine has to deal with a lot less stress compared to a D15/1 engine.

[hondaNickx]

"]and the D14 engine has to deal with a lot less stress compared to a D15/1 engine

Sorry but that is totally wrong ,in fact it's the complete opposite of what your're saying D14 has way less stress on it's rods compared to D15 and D16's because a D14 has a high Rod to stroke ratio (R/S ratio).Every D15 and D16 engine has a very low R/S ratio only the D14 and D13 have very high R/S ratio's.You can compare those 2 with a B16b and B16A engine.D14 having the same R/S ratio as a B16a engine.

According to Endyn 1.74 :1 R/S Ratio is an ideal in between ratio that creates good low end torque and good high end power.
Higher R/s ratio's give good high end power and not so much low end.
And lower R/S ratios the opposite.

Lower R/S ratio's have higher pistons speeds which means faster wear.
And the angle the connecting rod makes when the piston comes down is sharper which results to more stress on the cylinder wall and bearings.
A B18c (type-r) has also very low R/s ratio and piston speeds that are higher then F1 engines .A D16 has even higher piston speeds than a B18c engine.

That's why a D14 doesn't break down at 140hp or so ,and people can boost these stock engines and get 180-190chp without problems.

[lakaiD14]

"]and the D14 engine has to deal with a lot less stress compared to a D15/1 engine

Sorry but that is totally wrong ,in fact it's the complete opposite of what your're saying D14 has way less stress on it's rods compared to D15 and D16's because a D14 has a high Rod to stroke ratio (R/S ratio).Every D15 and D16 engine has a very low R/S ratio only the D14 and D13 have very high R/S ratio's.You can compare those 2 with a B16b and B16A engine.D14 having the same R/S ratio as a B16a engine.

According to Endyn 1.74 :1 R/S Ratio is an ideal in between ratio that creates good low end torque and good high end power.
Higher R/s ratio's give good high end power and not so much low end.
And lower R/S ratios the opposite.

Lower R/S ratio's have higher pistons speeds which means faster wear.
And the angle the connecting rod makes when the piston comes down is sharper which results to more stress on the cylinder wall and bearings.
A B18c (type-r) has also very low R/s ratio and piston speeds that are higher then F1 engines .A D16 has even higher piston speeds than a B18c engine.

That's why a D14 doesn't break down at 140hp or so ,and people can boost these stock engines and get 180-190chp without problems.

correct myself: i mean: way less stress........ u have once told me that and that was what i ment

[mynameisowen]

How is it going man?

[lakaiD14]

it is a long long long time ago that i have posted something, that's a good sign because it tells that i have been busy in the mean while.

till so far the parts i have gathered:
- coated pistons (side dry lubricant, top ceramic)
- balanced rods
- balanced crank (next week)
- fidanza flywheel (balanced together with crank)
- ARP rod bolts
- notched engine block D14a4
- flowed and gasket-matched cilinderhead (combustion chambers coated ceramic)
- gasket-matched D15 IM
- OBD-1 ECU swap with 240 cc injectors
- flowed oil pump
- megan racing header
- skunk2 cam gear

the NEW adjustments i made (i'm not going to repeat the current one's)

i have deceided to coat the combustion chambers because someone told me iff the heat can't go trough the pistons it will find it's way of the least resistance + it gives even a stronger combustion.

i have gasketmatched the IM the mostly on the points where the injector sprays, i believe when u gasket-match this spot a little tapered, the spraypath (or how this is called in proper english) will be beter and more divided over the air that is passing by.

and finally flowing the oil pump because i have read it is 25 to 40 % more efficient and that means more oil to cool and less power to turn the pump. The build/modify inscription (found on a belgium website) was very clear and the modifications made sense except for one important part:

(take in mind that i am a skilled metalworker/machiner and i know a thing or 2 about materials)

if you modify internal parts of an engine you really really do not want pieces of material floating around in your oil, leading to catastrophic engine failure.

the engine of a car has to deal a lot with temperature changes, it 's cold when it starts etc you know the story...... when you apply two different materials on each other the have to deal with to different expansions because every material has it's one thermal expansion coefficient. if this happens a lot with two materials stuck on each other they will crack because one of the materials expans more than the other.

this is the result when using putty of some material like this for flowing the pumps internals, the idea is good but i have improved this feature. in the current situation you have to deal with two kinds of aluminum (the one is the casted aluminum and the other is the aluminum putty).

my idea is to thread the hole deeper where the allen plug was placed and place an allen plug to fill the whole thread deepth and mark the spot you want to create the radius to improw oil flow. when you have acces to a milling machine, preferably CNC its easy to mill the radius in, but the easiest way is to grind the radius of. when you have done that you place the allen plug back in the whole ( I concider to fix the allen plug with some loctite). i have learned that a bolt or a threaded piece will go in a threaded hole in one way only so this is why this method is easy.

the only downside is that you will not receive the ideal flow but it is a real good way in that direction.

the BIG upside of the story is that u are GUARANTEED that u will not have nasty aluminum particles in your engine, floating around in your oil and wasting your bearings.

for the rest of it the article of the modifing was superb and a good discription

http://www.hondaclub-belgium.be/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=198

within a couple of weeks i will begin to build up the engine...

then i wil post some pics